In the archives of Labels Inc, hangs the Devil peak lapel grey coat from Raf Simons’ A/W 1999-2000 Disorder-Incubation-Isolation collection. This piece features an early Raf signature slim cut with high shoulders, and sharp black collar lines. To close it, a unique chained button maintains the coat tight around the waist.

Back in 1999, Simons presented a nearly all-black collection titled “Disorder—Incubation—Isolation” that opened with three models carrying flags, one with each word on it. After seven months of pandemic-induced quarantine in 2020, Simons debuted a nearly no-black collection called “Teenage Dreams,” citing the same three Joy Division songs in a press release. 

The palette may have changed, but the haunting cape hoodies and swing-back coats remained the same. Simons’s logo turtlenecks also persevered, their monogram R migrating from the hip to the neck. With their bowl cuts and haunting demeanor, the models in this show exuded a certain timelessness—or maybe it’s that no matter how far we come, disorder, incubation, and isolation remain at the heart of our lived experience.

This piece will be available for sale in the Winter/Autumn Collection debuting in August 6th in Labels Inc’s physical shop, and is now available in the webshop.

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